When born, Elizabethans were born into
a clearly defined structure in society. They would spend their who lives in
that place and would have distinctive expectations within that place. This
hierarchy was structured within a pyramid, and would have the minority (the
peasantry) at the bottom, and the Queen at the top.
The Poor
These were the Elizabethans who would
go without food or shelter. To control their numbers a poor Law was put in
place, which was if the poor women or man was capable to do an honest days work
and chose not to, they were sentenced to death.
The Poor Law 1601
The Peasantry
Within the Peasantry there is also a
hierarchy. First being the “cottars” who would reside in cottages which they
would rent, and occasionally an acre or two of land. Usually they would work
for a pittance harvesting and work under harsh conditions. There were a lucky
few who had skills and would gain a minimal income from their lands. This would
be the type of people who would only be able to wear the coif, to protect them
while their hair while they work.
Above
this was the tenant farmer (husbandman) who would rent the land from another
party. Sometimes they would own a lease that guaranteed him tenancy of the land
at the same rent. A typical holding would be around 25 acres. Although they
wouldn’t earn loads, they would usually have enough to eat, could take a
holiday and enjoy life at social events. This could mean their wives could
afford more expensive head covers, but it wouldn’t be as elaborate as the
attifet.
Then
there is the Yeoman. These would control freeholds rather than leases which
carried little or no rent and gave many acres of land. They may even have
tenants of his own. The Lord of the Manor still held the title of the land, but
a freehold was indistinguishable from direct ownership. They would still work
on the land however they were clearly higher than the rest of the peasantry. If
they engrossed their holdings they could eventually become gentry.
The
Gentry
Either
Lords of a Manor (where they hold land outright) or gentlemen freeholders
(tenants of some greater lord) they were the elite of the countryside. They did
no manual labour and lived off tenants rent.
They would gill all local offices such as sheriff or surveyor of the
roads. The most important post was Justices of the Peace, they enforced the
laws and met out justice in the community. There was also knights, however they
only held status, there was no actual gain. Finally there were the esquires,
who were the more distinguished members of the country gentry community. All of
these would serve in Parliament in the House of Commons. The Gentry would be
able to afford to have many of the hair covers, although they wouldn’t have as
lavish ones as the Nobility.
A Wedding Feast 1569
The
Nobility
You could only be a noble if you were born
into it or ennobled by Elizabeth herself. This status meant that if they came
to any trouble the only form of punishment they could have was being beheaded,
being tortured or pilloried etc was against the law. Nobles inherited extensive
lands and generous incomes, these would be the richest people in England.
Therefore I would expect that their hairstyles were most true to the times.
With elaborate headdresses and beautiful wigs.
Philip Howard Earl of Arundel
Queen
Of course
the queen had the best hair and accessories around as she was the person who
set these trends! Her Ladies of the Court would also be well dressed, their
hair would be very similar but not as lavish as the Queens.
still from Elizabeth (1997)
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