Elizabethan Hairstyles

There were many hair trends for men and women during the Elizabethan times. Whether it was dying their hair or adding accessories, the hair was an important attribute in their society. It also helped to distinguish the wealthy and the poor as it would be hard for the poorer to successfully achieve the “ideal” look. Many different styles were popular at the time and some hair styles would even indicate qualities about the person. For instance long hair of a young girl was a sign of a virgin an was the favoured on their wedding days, usually with fresh flowers as accessories. Once the women were married their hair would be swept up and usually incorporate plaits, curls and accessories into the looks. Fringes were not a favoured look in these times, instead women would have a high hair line and usually a middle parting.

A look favoured by the Queen and her ladies of the court was a frizzed hair, however the straighter look was also popular if they were wearing something like the French hood. A French hood is a head covering, something that was popular during Elizabethan fashion. Other examples include the veil, coif or caul, all of which a will explain in more detail further on. These all incorporated items such as jewels, gold thread, lace, feathers, pearls and embroidery. The more lavish the more wealthy you were. 

Rats

To create a high hair style the Elizabethans needed padding, this was usually referred to as rats because of its similarities to the creatures. One end was pointed like the rats nose and one rounded like the haunches of the rat. Using the hair from the ears forward, these rats would add volume to the hair, creating a heart shaped frame around the face. The rats would rolled into the hair and secured at the head by being sewn in, due the fact they didn’t have bobby pins in those days. To finish the look the would usually have a bun at the back, and tight curls.

Elizabeth Brydges 1589

The Coif

Worn by all children and many women, the coif was also referred to as the “biggin”. It was made out of white linen and would tie under the chin. This was worn to keep the hair in place and to protect their hair from the elements, so was usually worn by the poor.

Anthonis Mor: Portrait of a Lady 1555-1560

The French Hood

First introduced by Queen Elizabeth’s mum Anne Boleyn, the French hood is a crescent/half moon styled band that slopes away from the face. It sat towards the back of the hair and covered the ears. The hoods were usually adorned with jewels and pearls and had a veil to cover the back of the hair. The patterns and material would usually match the outfits they were wearing for continuity.

The Unknown Women (sometimes known as Catherine Howard) 1541

The Attifet

Quite similar the French hood, however the crescent was heart shape. A look favoured in white by Mary Queen of Scots. As decoration these would usually have lace trimmings.

                                                         Frances Walsingham 1567-1633

The Caul

The Caul is a hair net made out of ribbon, usually decorated with pearls. It covered the back of the head.

still from the Film Elizabeth (Cate Blanchett) 1997

The Pillbox Hat

Used on the back section of the head the pillbox hat could either be warn plain, or have a veil attached to the back.

Isabel De Valois 1560

Mens Hairstyles

As well as the Women, men had a particular fashion to follow when it came to hair. Although Their fashion changed during the era, beginning

·      Although the style changed during the era, from a short hair cut to a much longer fashion. The long strands would usually be curly, which was created by hot irons and wax. They called these love locks and they were worn shoulder length. Much like the women, when their hair started to bald, they would depend upon wigs. As well as the styling, many men would also adopt the fairer hair, from whites to yellows and reds.

Even their facial hair became long and would be held in place with starch. For the shorter beards, there was a lot of work for the hairdresser’s who would have to create different shapes such as a pointed beard, squared, rounded, oblong or even T-shaped. To protect their beards at night they would encase them in a special wooden press.

Shakespeare